Do not worry, I am happy to help you find the right product, the Fiddes Hard Wax oil Natural is a good starting point as it is designed to offer a great level of protection whilst maintaining that untouched look. Your carving should have a wood-grain look with changing color tones that range from the base color of the wood on the highest parts to dark umber tones in the deepest crevices. It also gives good protection. What should I use to keep it looking good, keeping the wood health and not looking shiny ? I want the natural wood and the natural colour of the teak – I don’t want to stain it with any colours. I hope that helps and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions. Intricate carving can be difficult and a build up of oil in crevices can leave a messy finish. },{ It fine to ask as many questions as you like, that is what we are here for. Any stubborn oil may need to be sanded out. I want the finish to be clear and bring out the natural grain of the timber as well as being protective to the weather. Hello what a great site! The protection delivered by oils isn’t quite as robust and effective as contemporary wood finishing products like varnishes. I was also warned never ever use a finish such as varnish, varathane, urethane or any finish that will seal the wood. Teak oil is suitable for both exterior and interior surfaces. It repels water and prevents chalking. If your product protects your wood and prevents damage from drying and aging, it’s worth it to spend just a little bit more. It’s economical and produces a nice finish to your wood. Found your very interesting website and thought it best to ask my questions here. Furniture oils tend to be made from natural substances, but this also increases their price somewhat." The exterior is oak, the drawers are ash with plywood inserts. It can easily generate heat and catch fire. Presumably as Teak Oil is colourless I shouldn’t be seeing a colour coming off the wood, should I? It can be difficult with so many variations on the market. There are several outdoor oils, but I recommend Cabot oil. Also something else I read suggested that once a year it’s a good idea to sand it all back and start again.

Tung oil is obtained from the seeds of the Tung tree and was first invented in China (where this tree grows). Let’s take a look at three of the most common types of furniture oil so that you can understand their qualities. It is ideal for use on light to mid toned woods, dark woods can result in a milky effect finish. Danish oil might darken the wood a little unless you get a natural color Danish oil or a color close to the wood you have. Thank you. I hope this gives you some ideas to go forward with and if you have any more questions feel free to ask away – Sam. "text": "Yes, most oils will darken the wood once applied. It is also true to say that most Oils will also darken the wood slightly, the wood may also have still had a lot of the previous oil still left in it from the older treatments and so it saturation levels may have been less than you thought. You can always come back to me if it doesn’t work and you need more advice. We have a great video on our You Tube Channel >> that will help with getting a smooth and even finish. This product is available in sample sizes also. If it’s already painted or coated, you will not be able to use a furniture oil. "name": "How to Apply Oil? There are companies such as Tried & True which provide natural based BLO products giving an ecologically friendly finish. Definitely, you need some oil for antique furniture. The oils must be tested on each type of wood as the results will vary, although application should always be very thin and the woods will benefit from a wipe down with Barrettine Methylated Spirits first. You can keep conditioning your wood piece without having to remove the top oil coat and without sanding things down. What would you suggest for this? I would like the wood to be as natural as possible with a slight sheen. What would you recommend? You never really know what you’re getting here.

I would recommend a test area first to ensure that you like the finish that will be achieved, as this will darken the wood slightly. I’m looking for some advice on how best to treat external Iroko staircases as I’ve got a lot of differing opinions. Again test area is recommended. Varnishing is a strictly a no-no. It depends. Let me know if you have any other questions. Nearly all manufacturers of veneered doors advice you not to use Oils, for the very reason that you have talked about. There are times when it’s worth using and times when it isn’t. Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. For an Oak door that is currently untreated I would recommend a preserver first and to work in line with my top coat recommendation, you could take a look at the Osmo WR Basecoat this will penetrate the woods surface and protect against mould and decay. Grain in wood can be a pesky thing if it isn’t even and parallel. 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